By I was so convinced I’d be in trouble if I didn’t pack an extra tin of milk. I had flown out of Manchester Airport, and to make matters worse, my bags were overweight when I got there. I stood helplessly as I watched my food being taken away. All I knew about Uganda was what I’d read online while preparing for my PhD research visit. I’d read that labour laws didn’t favour women, it was a third-world country and it was extremely impoverished.
This influenced my choice of food, leading me to pack my suitcase full of spaghetti, milk and tinned fish. I wondered, if I removed the milk, would I find milk to buy in Uganda? I was travelling with a fellow Ghanaian friend, who was also conducting PhD research. We shared everything in common, especially our mindset about Uganda.
When we landed at Entebbe Airport, it was far from the “third-world standard” we had imagined, though we remained sceptical. We were headed to Ntinda, a suburb in Kampala, where we would stay for the next few weeks. My first impression was the abundance of greenery – colourful trees and grass-filled compounds, with plants in almost every corner. To my surprise, the buildings in Kampala were stunning, to say the least. I was immediately taken by the diverse shops and supermarkets, some even better than those in Ghana.
It was a lot to take in. And the nightlife? I couldn’t believe how lively, fun, and boisterous it was. I felt so foolish for believing the things I’d read online. As for the milk it turned out I didn’t need those silly tins. After tasting Uganda’s milk tea, I realised why – the milk was the purest and freshest I’d ever had, to the amazement of both my friend and me. The tea leaves, too, were unlike anything we’d ever known.
This experience set the tone for my general impression of the food. The fish tasted as though it had just been caught, and the variety of organic foods was unparalleled. My phone gallery quickly filled with photos of dishes I eagerly anticipated each day. Most were meals I’d never imagined: matooke, kinyebwa (groundnut sauce), chicken luwombo (steamed chicken stew and my personal favourite), and even fried pea sauce tasted unique. The pineapple was the most delicious I’d had in my 42 years. In fact, all the fruits – watermelon, mango, jackfruit – made me question the quality of what I’d eaten before. I
also loved how most households served more than one dish per meal. Food combos for lunch and supper were a norm, and I embraced it wholeheartedly. I may not be a food enthusiast, but I could see why someone might become one in Uganda.
We were fortunate enough to visit the Ndere Cultural Centre. From where I sat, it felt like watching a real-life movie made of pure dance. Each performance was as entertaining as it was enlightening. Ugandans are truly full of energy, and their dedication to culture is commendable. This commitment extends to their sense of fashion. I didn’t meet a single Ugandan without some sense of style, whether in their clothing or their hair. It was as if everyone was making a statement, and each person left this Ghanaian mesmerized. Of course, there were challenges like traffic and delays. But if there’s one thing no one can take away from this country, it’s the sun. I come from a tropical climate too, but the sun in Uganda is different. There’s a certain magic in how it shows up. I witnessed this during a sunset boat cruise on Lake Victoria. When I say Ugandans live in pure heaven, I mean it.
To be honest, I didn’t know it either, thanks to my ignorance. It’s funny how we, as Africans, came to this country with such a negative mindset. How do they measure an “impoverished” country, and why is Uganda labelled as one? It made me realise that part of the problem lies with us – we don’t encourage intra-African tourism. Africa is wide open to Europeans and Americans, but not to other Africans.
Some African countries even demand visas and charge higher ticket prices for Africans than for Europeans, which is truly sad.
Thankfully, when we arrived at Entebbe Airport, we were told we didn’t need to pay the $100 visa fee. I later learned it was due to reciprocal relations between Ghana and Uganda.
It’s true what they say – you never know a place until you’ve been there.
Compiled by Tezra Kisakye
